Dreaming of your next holiday in the sun? Us too. With COVID restrictions now coming to an end, the possibilities for travel beyond the UK are endless, says Lauren Ho. Make Portugal – home to delicious seafood, beautiful beaches and hundreds of historical landmarks – the next stop on your list with our roundup of the best hotels…

Four Seasons Hotel Ritz, Lisbon

Fan’s of Lisbon’s Four Seasons Hotel Ritz have long prized both its central location – at the top of the main Avenida de Liberdade, across from Parque Eduardo VII – and its status as one of the most prominent landmarks in the city. Built in 1959 by the Dictator Salazar, who wanted to put Lisbon on the map as a luxury destination, the iconic hotel has now emerged from a spruce-up, courtesy of Portuguese designers Oitoemponto.

The biggest changes have taken place in the 282 rooms and suites, which each come with their own outdoor terraces and views of Lisbon. These have been brought into the 21st century with updated lighting and technology, alongside a mid-century design scheme that takes its cues from the heritage of the hotel. This includes a rich teal palette embellished with details like chairs, which have been modelled after those found in the hotel’s Card Room in 1959, and carpets with a wave motif inspired by the tapestry that hangs in the bar.

Downstairs, the hotel’s opulent décor of chandeliers, gilded furniture and huge flower displays continue to set the hotel’s grand tone. Updates here include a new outdoor swimming pool and bar, while the terrace at the Ritz Bar is the best spot to indulge in a sunset cocktail before heading to Cura, which recently received its first Michelin star. Here, chef Pedro Pena Bastos sends out pretty plates – such as the squid with hazelnut, bergamot, roasted seaweed butter and caviar – that draw on Lisbon’s rich regional palette of seasonal ingredients.

Work off any indulgences at the hotel’s sprawling rooftop gym, which comes complete with a 400-metre outdoor running track set against panoramic city views. For the more sedate, the spa – undoubtedly the best in Lisbon – has an 18-metre lap pool, alongside treatments that use local skincare brand, Benamôr.

Palácio Príncipe Real, Lisbon

Lisbon’s Príncipe Real neighbourhood has long been a draw for locals and visitors alike for its evocative mix of faded palaces, convivial restaurants and cool concept stores, but the 28-room Palácio Príncipe Real – once you step through its discreet façade – is a certified head-turner.

Once the former home of the prominent Teixeira da Mota family, the 1877 palácio, thanks to the meticulous attention of British owners Gail and Miles Curley, has been immaculately restored while retaining much of its original 19th-century details such as the glorious blue and white azulejos (tiles) and expressive Moorish stucco work.

As such, modernity gently intrudes by way of bold colours, freestanding Drummonds bath tubs, bathroom amenities from Byredo, Dyson hair dryers, and mini Smeg fridges filled with complimentary treats.

Breakfast, which can be served at any time, is à la carte with options such as homemade tomato puree on toasted sourdough with avocado and seeds, while for lunch and dinner, expect dishes like courgette ravioli with sun-dried tomatoes and pine nuts, homemade sweet potato fries with a beetroot ketchup, and for dessert, a sugar-free brownie with homemade strawberry sorbet.

Outside, the sprawling garden of purple-blossomed jacaranda trees and a swimming pool is the best spot to while away a summer afternoon with a cocktail against a soundtrack of bird song.

Image: @palacioprincipereal

The Ivens, Lisbon

The opening of The Ivens in Lisbon is a hopeful indicator that more of the city’s extraordinary collection of period architecture will be repurposed with equally pleasing results.

Occupying the former broadcasting building for Radio Renascença, in Lisbon’s central Chiado neighbourhood, the hotel has been reimagined by Barcelona-based Lázaro Rosa-Violan and local designer Cristina Matos into a theatrical bolthole.

More precisely located at the crossroads of two streets, which are each named after famed Portuguese explorers, Roberto Ivens and Hermenegildo Capelo, the hotel takes its cues from the duo’s intrepid 19th-century expeditions throughout southern Africa. 

Upstairs, the 87-rooms and suites are tranquil havens dressed in an understated palette of natural materials such as linen, cotton, timber and lioz stone. This, in turn, is embellished with fabrics and wallpapers, adorned with exotic African and flora and fauna motifs, which add texture, colour and warmth.

In contrast, the public spaces and restaurants reveal Rosa-Violan’s maximalist, explosive aesthetic through a riot of floral patterns, eccentric detailing, and a bright kaleidoscope of colours. All this comes together in a bold statement that has affirmed Rocco – the hotel’s trio of eateries – as the place to see and be seen.

Sit at the Gastrobar beneath a mirrored floating wine rack and snack on light Portuguese plates like salt cod à bràs; dine on raw seafood and Champagne at Crudo, or for a proper treat, the Ristorante serves up a menu of Italian classics including veal cutlet Milanese, lobster linguine and brown crab ravioli. 

The Vintage, Lisbon

One bijoux boutique property at a time, Lisbon’s hoteliers are transforming the city’s hospitality landscape into a traveller’s dream. Among one of the recent successes to emerge, is The Vintage. 

Set an easy 25-minute walk from the waterfront, among the lively restaurants and cool concept stores of the Príncipe Real neighbourhood, the interiors of the 53-room hotel are the work of Quiet Studios, the Spanish outfit judiciously weaving an overarching clean-lined and contemporary aesthetic with vintage touches and local personality. 

This comes by way of the in-room mid-century trolley bar carts (which come complete with a Portuguese gin & tonic kit), art – from a vibrant portrait of a fado singer by Lisbon-based painter Magarida Fleming to colourful prints by João Rei in the bedrooms – and ceramics, pencils and toothpaste by local artisanal producers.

The hotel’s attention to detail is carried over into the subterranean spa with a steam room, sauna, jet pool and a menu of treatments like the signature Vintage Ritual. The rooftop bar, with its evocative city views is the best spot to enjoy a cocktail before heading down to Blue, which serves up a contemporary Portuguese menu of shared plates such as pica pau – beef strips in a pickle sauce – and roasted octopus with sweet potato and padron peppers.

The Lumiares Hotel & Spa, Lisbon

If the quality of boutique hotels are anything to go by, Lisbon is having a moment. Setting the standard is The Lumiares, a renovated 17th-century palace, which has now been reimagined as a sleek 47-room retreat with a spa and a rooftop restaurant set with views of Lisbon’s characterful skyline.

Located in the city’s lively Bairro Alto neighbourhood, among narrow cobbled streets lined with restaurants, bars and tiled façades, the hotel, which is anchored by a grand stone staircase with a sculptural lighting installation, is a love letter to Portugal, with a focus on local artisanal producers. As such, each of the apartments – which vary in size – are kitted out with cushions woven by artisans in the Alentejo, rugs by Ferreira de Sá and fully-equipped kitchenettes with porcelain from Vista Alegre.

Alongside the small spa, which has a steam room and a sauna as well as a menu of treatments that includes the signature Lumiares de-stress massage, the rooftop is a particular treat. Here against Lisbon’s quintessential red rooftops, watch the pastel shades fade from the sky while enjoying a cold glass of white wine and bites from the oxtail croquettes and green bean tempura to spicy prawns sauteed in garlic and herbs.

Santa Clara 1728, Lisbon

If you ever needed a clearer indication of Lisbon’s potential, look no further than the boutique hotels that are opening up in the city’s collection of period buildings.

Setting the bar is the six-bedroom Santa Clara 1728, a design-focused bolthole set away from the tourist trail, with evocative views over the National Pantheon’s dome, and beyond that, the River Tagus.

The work of owner João Rodrigues, together with architect Manuel Aires Mateus, the building’s sturdy 18th-century  limestone bones have been quietly offset with contemporary touches including furnishings by Carl Hansen and B&B Italia and light fixtures by Italian designer Davide Groppi. 

More like a private home than a restaurant, there are no traditional facilities like a gym or a restaurant, but happily the hotel is in a neighbourhood with lots of restaurants and there is an open kitchen with snacks, wine, coffee and cakes at the ready. Breakfast meanwhile is a three-course affair featuring dishes – using local ingredients – such as scrambled eggs with shitake mushrooms and toasted buckwheat. 

Verride Palácio Santa Catarina, Lisbon

Lisbon’s stockpile of heritage architecture has been a blessing for hoteliers looking for suitably grand interiors. A prime example is the 18-room Verride Palácio Santa Catarina, in the lively Bica neighbourhood.

Local architect Teresa Nunes da Ponte has retained the original details of the 18th-century palace, while reimagining the interior with a soft palette of silk wallpaper and raw linen in light blues and beige. The best rooms in the house are the two Royal Suites, in particular, the Queen’s Suite, with its rich embellishment of stucco work and bathroom with original blue and white tiles dating from 1901.

The preservation of the building has not allowed for a spa, but there is a small swimming pool with a sun deck area and a splendid rooftop with some of the best views over Lisbon and the River Tagus. Here too is Suba Restaurant, which serves a menu of elevated Portuguese dishes like the milk-fed goat with traditional rice or the squid with artichoke and inverted dashi in a warm and  sophisticated setting that looks out over the river.

The One Palácio da Anunciada Lisbon

Housed in a 16th-century original palace building, with 83 rooms set in the spacious buildings and surrounding 2500 square metres of pretty gardens, the interiors feature restored and enriched original features including marble floors and eye-catching gilded ceilings.

The rooms are light and bright, with bleached wood and hand-painted ceramic decorations, with bathrooms lined with rose-pink marble and showers big enough for a party. The beds are made up with Egyptian cotton sheets and the perfect place to rest up after a busy day of sight seeing.

Valverde Hotel, Lisbon

A large part of the charm of Lisbon lies in its architecture, a fascinating blend of styles characteristic of its evocative history. This, together with the enthusiasm of entrepreneurs looking to put Portugal on the map, has meant the city is alive with interesting boutiques, restaurants and hotels.

Valverde, on Lisbon’s grand boulevard Avenida da Liberdade, sits behind a beautifully preserved 19th-century façade and comprises two buildings, which Porto-based designers Bastir have artfully fused into a 48-room hotel.

Inspired by the townhouses of London and New York, the interiors are rich with heavy fabrics and a mix of contemporary and veneered retro furniture, alongside a collection of art, objects and antiques. 

The best room in the house is the Valverde Suite, where a large aquarium window frames quintessential rooftop views.

Like a personal residence, there are a number of cosy sitting rooms with a collection of books, and a small film room. This being Lisbon, it’s no surprise that a table at Sítio is in high demand. Here, chef Carla Sousa, sends out modern Portuguese dishes – inspired by her Cape Verdean roots – like white asparagus soup with black truffle and a slow-cooked egg, or confit of piglet served with roasted pumpkin and a port wine sauce.

Mama Shelter, Lisbon

With admirable stealth, the Mama Shelter brand is opening a desirable collection of bold, eye-catching hotels in destinations around the globe, with its latest edition landing in Lisbon.

Located in prime position between the lively Príncipe Real neighbourhood and the monumental Marquis of Pombal Square, the hotel stays true to the brand’s vibrant and playful formula, but with a strong sense of Lisbon spirit.

Designed by the company’s in-house  team, the interiors burst with energetic colours and bold textures, mixing pop culture, bohemian style and Portuguese maritime heritage to feature details such as the hand-painted ceiling with fish motifs and carpets designed to resemble the city’s ubiquitous azulejos (blue tiles).

Aimed as a destination for visitors and locals alike, the restaurant, which is anchored by a a large island bar crafted from local marble, is a Portuguese interpretation of a French brasserie and serves updated classics like steak tartare with nori seaweed and wasabi mayonnaise and crowd-pleasing favourites such as the Mama’s Cheese Burger. Also on offer are a selection of tasty pizzas, which can be bought by the slice to takeaway, while the rooftop with its panoramic city views is  the place to watch one of those famous Lisbon sunsets – cocktail in hand of course.

Sublime, Comporta

Ever since it opened eight years ago, beach-loving aesthetes have descended on Sublime Comporta, a rustic-chic hotel just an hour south of Lisbon, for both its laid-back vibe as for the cinematic ocean frontage of Portugal’s wild Atlantic coast.

Set amid 17-hectares of umbrella pines, cork trees and wildflowers, the hotel, over the years, has transformed from an intimate 14-room bolthole to now comprise 23 rooms and suites and a further 22 villas. This includes several A-frame villas alongside a series of biological pool suites that use aquatic flora and bio matter instead of chemicals to keep them naturally clean. 

This wholesome attitude extends throughout the hotel’s concept from its approach to wellness to the organic garden, which provides a variety of herbs and vegetables for the restaurants and bars.

Here, options include Sem Porta, which serves a modern Portuguese menu using seasonal ingredients from local producers; Food Circle, the 12-seat outdoor farm-to-table restaurant; and Tasca Da Comporta, a relaxed outdoor space that serves traditional Portuguese pesticosfrom fire-grilled black pork chorizo to octopus salad, with nature as a backdrop.

Just minutes from the hotel along one of the untamed beaches that makes this one of the country’s most beautiful spots, Sublime Comporta Beach Club is a convivial restaurant both in summer and winter, from which to enjoy life’s simple pleasures like  local grilled fish and oysters- after you’ve spent a morning horseback riding among the dunes.

The Yeatman, Porto

Evocative, edgy, magnificent and incredibly picturesque, it’s little wonder that Porto has captivated both conquerors and travellers alike, leading one to wonder why it’s taken so long for a hotel like The Yeatman to come along.

More specifically located in the city of Gaia, the hotel is all about the mesmerising views towards Porto across the river. And wine. From the decanter-shaped pool and the wine-focused interiors to the 82 rooms and suites, which are discreetly themed  around a vineyard partner, the hotel takes its cues from it setting, which, as a former hub of the port wine industry, is surrounded by a cluster of cellars that offer tastings and tours. Here also is WOW, a new development comprising museums, restaurants and bars – housed within centuries old cellars – that tell the story of some of Portugal’s most important industries and traditions. 

Set on a hillside and comprising six storeys, the hotel’s views are best enjoyed from the hotel’s Michelin star restaurant or the spa’s indoor pool. 

PortoBay Flores, Porto

The PortoBay group could not have picked a better spot for the debut of its newest hotel in Porto – on a pedestrian street within a five-minute walk of the city’s top attractions including Igreja de São Francisco, the Porto Cathedral and Livraria Lello. 

Housed in a heritage pile dating from the 16th-century, alongside a seamlessly integrated new wing, the 66-room hotel unfolds tastefully with an understated design that makes the most of the building’s original elements such as the large wooden doors, wrought iron balconies, and stonework emblazoned with a 500-year-old coat of arms.

The sense of refinement is especially evident across the 11 rooms in the historic wing, but equally, the upper floors of the new building have lovely views of the cathedral and the Douro River. 

The Mandalay Spa, with its indoor pool, sauna, hammam and menu of southeast Asian treatments, is a great spot to wind down after a day exploring Porto’s streets. Follow this with a bite to eat at Bistro Flores, a convivial restaurant from which to enjoy chef Nuno Miguel’s elevated Portuguese dishes, or head to Bar dos Maias in the hotel’s lobby – also the former stables – for a cocktail and a people-watching session.

Douro41, Douro Valley

While the understated silhouette of Douro41 is impressive, there’s no doubt that the star attraction of this 61-room hotel is its spectacular natural backdrop of the winding Douro River-cut valley.

Located 41km from the mouth of the Douro River – an easy 45-minute drive from Porto – the hotel’s design is the work of Cristina Jorge de Carvalho, who maximised the panoramic vistas – which are framed by floor-to-ceiling windows – with subtle, low-key interiors in a cool white palette.

Diversions over the summer range from picnics in the hotel’s gardens to exclusive boat trips, while winter is the best time to enjoy the fabulous spa.

Perfect to build your appetite for Raiva, where food comes courtesy of chef Dárcio Henriques. Here, the concept takes in the 897 kilometre journey from the Urbión mountains – where the Douro River springs – through the terraces, gorges and plains, to the ocean in Porto. As such, expect dishes from the crispy egg and wild mushrooms, served with mushroom consommé and smoked oil, to poached Atlantic sea bass with cauliflower purée and fish velouté.

For a more casual affair, head to À Terra, where you can enjoy comfort classics like the prego, with a glass of red wine, against those captivating vistas.

São Lourenço do Barrocal, Alentejo

In-the-know nature lovers have long favoured the wild, captivating beauty of Portugal’s Alentejo region for their holiday dose. Here, São Lourenço do Barrocal is a firm favourite that can almost be described as a cult classic. 

Set amid the sprawling golden Alentejo plains, among 780-hectares of vineyards and olive groves, the low-lying whitewashed farmhouse and collection of barns and outhouses have been transformed into luxurious lodgings. 

The sturdy bones, arched walkways and vaulted ceilings form a simple canvas for a rustic, effortless aesthetic embellished with understated furnishings, old photographs and local objects.

It’s no surprise that the activities on offer are wholesome, taking in nature and the local landscape. So after a day spent walking, horse riding or cycling through the estate, make sure to drop by the Susanne Kaufmann spa, where a holistic menu of treatments includes massages that use herbs from the kitchen garden and the estate’s organic olive oil.

At the restaurant, nearly everything on the menu is from the hotel’s grounds, which showcases its own orchard, organic vegetable garden and free-roaming cattle. Expect dishes like scrambled eggs with wild asparagus and tubers or Alentejo pork cheeks, cockle ‘migas’ and samphire. All washed down with an excellent selection of wine that is produced in-house, of course.

Featured image: Four Seasons Hotel Ritz

Source: https://www.countryandtownhouse.com/travel/the-best-hotels-in-portugal/